Warning –
this will only apply to 9mmp loads as it is by far the most reloaded cartridge
in SA. Loads discussed are my own. Do not copy them, do a proper safe load
development.
Part4 – Powder Charging
Always
follow the powder manufacturers load data!
From Lee we
have 2 Powder Measures that are case activated; the Pro Auto Disk and the Auto
Drum. You can also charge off the press with the Perfect Powder Measure or
Lee’s powder dippers. This is more for single stage users…we will look at the
case activated measures here.
The Pro Auto
Disk and the older Auto Disk use a disk that has six cavities, they ship with 4
of these disks. Each cavity will give you a volume of powder. Each cavity is
marked with a number representing the volume, measured in .cc. The number on
the disc is not the weight!
A very
important factor to consider is that each type of powder has a different density.
There are ways to work this out but the safest is to weigh each hole. Start
with the smallest and work up. With most powders you will find a few of these
holes that will give you a safe range with their suggested loads.
Let’s look
at setting up the Pro Auto Disk.
·
Using the swivel adaptor turn the measure into
your set Powder Through Die.
·
Orient the activating lever to line up with the
chain hole on the press – only if you are setting up a Progressive with the
chain setup. The Turret Press and Single Stage Presses use a spring in the
measure to activate.
·
Insert your chosen disk and make sure it is
slotted in correctly.
·
Install the hopper…note the markings “closed –
open” must face you.
·
Tighten the brass thumb nuts.
·
Set the bell on the chain; leave about 5 beads
below the bell. Insert the spring from the top, it must be on the bell. Thread
the chain through the hole in the press.
·
Leave your carrier at the bottom. Now make sure
the activating lever is in the down position. Thread the chain in the first hole.
·
Lift the carrier slightly and pull 2 more beads
through the hole in the activating lever.
·
Drop the carrier, the chain should now be tight
and there should be tension on the spring, not too much or it will snap.
·
Secure the top of the chain through the second
hole in the activating arm.
·
Test that the case activates the powder measure
and that the disk moves fully forward.
·
Test that the chain returns the disk fully on
the down stroke.
If you do
snap the chain go buy a length of bathroom chain from your nearest hardware.
Just do not lose the bell and spring.
If you need
to change the disk, shut off the hopper and run a case with an old primer in,
through the die a few times to empty the bottom of the measure. Remove the
hopper and change the disc. Open the hopper again.
The older
Auto Drum does not work like this and uses the spring setup, it also cannot be
closed and does not have a swivel adaptor. These are not in production anymore
and spares are not available. If you have one, start saving for the Auto Drum.
The Auto
Drum is Lee’s latest case activated measure.
It also
works on volume but instead of disks the Auto Drum has a set of drums that can
be adjusted from 1gr to 80gr. You are not confined to a set volume as with the
disks.
Let’s look
at setting up the Auto Drum.
·
Using the swivel adaptor turn the measure into
your set Powder Through Die.
·
Orient the drum so that you can have a clear
view of it.
·
Select your drum, the small one for 1gr to 35gr,
the large one for 36gr to 80gr.
·
To set your volume use the key to increase or
decrease the metering chamber.
·
Once set, remove the key.
·
Test that the case activates the drum fully
forward and as the case leave the die the drum returns to zero.
·
There are no chains or anything to setup, the
spring in the Auto drum is strong enough to return the drum.
(This is
just a quick setup, follow the instructions. I will post a full blog on how to
setup the Auto Drum later)
The
important part; make sure that the disc or drum (Auto Drum) moves fully forward
on the up stroke and all the way to the back on the down stroke. Keep an eye on this as it could lead to half
charges or worse yet no charge. Make sure of your setup and test it properly.
As you progress and get more comfortable with this aspect you will know that your
charge is right by just eyeballing the load in the case.
Then the
most important part; make sure to check that each case has the correct charge
of powder! Even if you are 100% sure of your setup, eyeball each load!
Squib loads
are very dangerous. A squib is when there is no or very little powder in the
cartridge. The pressure created by the primer is just enough to push the bullet
in the barrel. If you should fire the next shot you will blow up your barrel or
worse. Most of the time a squib will not cycle the gun and not allow the next
round to chamber but we all learned to “tap, rack” and this could lead to the
next bullet firing….so be very careful of squib loads.
This is the
main reason why I do not recommend a Bullet Feeder to a new progressive owner!
Having to place the bullet by hand on the case gives you a much better chance
to check the charge.
Ok, now you choose
your powder…these days its case of whatever powder you can get. Go and find the
manufacturers recommended min and max loads…this can be found on their website.
Also note that they will have suggested loads for different weights of bullets
and importantly types of bullets.
CMJ and FMJ
are copper plated bullets…Frontier Bullets here by us. LRN or Lead bullets will
also feature here. For Coated Bullets you will need to work with a load between
a similar weight Lead and CMJ bullet. But from what I have found you will end
up with a load close to the CMJ/FMJ load. If you are loading Coated Bullets
start you load at -10% of the minimum suggested load.
We will look
closer at load development in our final part.
Up next we
look at seating and crimping the bullet…
