Reloading 9mmp - Final thoughts and a quick look at load development.

Final thoughts and a quick look at load development.

So now you have a better understanding of the following:

·         What happens to the case when fired.

·         The steps we have to take to get the case ready again for another load.

·         What each die does in the reloading process.

 Clean your cases, do not run dirty cases. Dirt in a Progressive is looking for trouble but also dirty cases can damage your dies.

There are a few ways to clean your cases;

• A rinse in a solution of Citric Acid (1Teaspoon), Sunlight (1Teaspoon), Vinegar (1Teaspoon) and 2 litres of hot water.
• Dry Tumbling with media. I use a Lyman Tumbler with Tuffnut media and a dash of car polish, tumble for 3 hours and you have nice and shiny cases. The insides are not that clean but clean enough to reload.
• Or you can use a Wet Tumbler, probably the best way to clean your brass. However it is more expensive and you have a drying period.

Inspect your cases. Berdan primed cases gets chucked away. Lookout for other calibres like 9mm Short, 40S&W and others.  Mark your cases so they are easily identified then you just need to check unmarked cases.

Whatever press setup you choose, be it a single stage, turret or progressive take it slow in the beginning. Learn to feel what happens in each step. To help with this I suggest you lube your cases. Yes I know, carbide dies does not require lube but it does help smooth things out.  For instance I can feel a primer being seated in my Load Master.

Whenever something gets stuck rather stop and look. Berdan primed cases can slip into your stash and will ruin a reloading session quickly. Rather than using force, stop and look. If you are loading on a progressive keep track of what is happening. Stopping to remove a Berdan primed case could make you lose track. Check that you did not double charge a case.

Do not force your press, remember that a primer needs only to be crushed to go boom…and in most presses you have a tray full of primers sitting next to the one you are forcing…the concussion of a primer going can set off the one next to it and the one next to that one…you get what I am saying. That is why we wear eye protection when reloading.

Make sure you have the correct primers and powder loaded before you start a session!

Always check that your case has the correct powder charge before seating the bullet! As you get more experienced you will note the level of the powder in the case.

Flare enough to allow your bullet to seat without scraping of any coating. This is important when loading coated bullets.

Crimp just enough to avoid setback! Check it and then double check again.

On to Load Development….

How do you go about developing a load? Well, you have to decide what you need from your reload. Are you just reloading to practise at the range or are you heading into the wonderful world of sport shooting?

Well, the proper way is to do this with the help of a Chronograph. This will measure the speed of the bullet. The speeds should be consistent. If not this will let you know there is a problem.  If you are reloading for a Power Factor you need to chrony your loads. There is no short cut.

What is Power Factor? Power Factor is used in sport shooting to level the playing field and ensuring that competitors can knock down activating targets. Power Factor for 9mmp or Minor is 125. This is worked out by measuring the speed of the bullet then multiplying this with the weight of the bullet. Then divide by 1000.

A 124 grain bullet needs at least 1009ft/s to make factor. Sport Shooters usually want more speed to account for differences in chronies and temperatures…on a cold morning you tend to lose a bit of speed.

If you are reloading just for range plinking you do not need to chase a Power Factor. All you need is for your gun to function reliably.

To do this, start with the lowest recommended powder charge, load 10. Then load 10 of the next weight and if possible 10 of the next weight. Stay in the recommended min/max.

Place a target at 5m. Shoot the first 10 from 1 magazine. Shoot the first 5 freestyle and try and group them as tight as possible. Shoot the next 2 rounds strong hand only, then the next 2 weak hand only but with a weak grip, this is the only time you need to limp wrist a shot. Then the last round, freestyle again and make sure that the empty mag locks the slide to the back. If this was successful use this load, no need to go up in your powder charge. If not, go to the next lot you loaded.

Do not exceed the max suggested by the manufacturer without the use of a chrony!

You also need to inspect your cases after you have shot them. Are the primers showing signs of pressure? Flattened or bulged primers could mean excessive pressure. This is not always the case and a chrony remains the best tool to check this.

If you had stove pipes check the outside of the case. Is it black from powder burns? If yes then you need to up the charge. A blackened case is an indication that your load does not have enough pressure to seal the chamber and is allowing gases to escape back out of the chamber…which burns the case black.

Inspect your target; make sure that you have nice clean bullet holes. Tears in the target instead of holes are a sign of tumbling bullets.

A few things to note.

•   Stick to the Powder manufacturers recommended loads. Only go higher if required and only with the use of a chrony.
•   When you increase your load do it as low as possible…even a 0.1grain increase in powder charge will increase the muzzle velocity.

I hope these posts have helped you understand a bit more about reloading 9mmp. It may sound like a lot but if you do things correctly reloading 9mmp is easy.

Just be safe, take things slow and most important enjoy!